Revue de presse 2017

The Wall Street Journal

Battez la bulle Bourguignone : Vins encore abordables

Winehog

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

2016 Bourgogne Aligoté

Aligoté Rating 83
Bottled mid-October, the 2016 Bourgogne Aligoté consists of just one 300-liter barrel this year. It has a
light and slightly buttery bouquet. The palate is simple but balanced though it lacks a little Aligoté typicité
on the innocuous finish.

2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir Rating (84 – 86)
The 2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which sees no new oak, offers subtle hints of blue fruit on the playful
nose. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin, moderate depth although I found this just
tapering in toward the leafy finish.

2016 Santenay Les Hâtes

Pinot Noir Rating (87 – 89)
The maiden 2016 Santenay Les Hâtes comes from a parcel located on the sloped part of the vineyard up
by Beaurepaire. It was previously sold to a negoçiant. It has a vivid red cherry and bergamot-scented
bouquet that has plenty of vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin, nicely structured on
the entry but becoming more supple toward the transparent finish. This is a fine debut although I think
there is better to come.

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard

Pinot Noir Rating (90 – 92)
The sophomore 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard was fermented in a concrete vat like the 2015. It has a
delightful, well-defined bouquet with vivacious, detailed redcurrant and raspberry preserve aromas that
blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well-judged acidity, fresh and
tensile with a poised and quite tensile finish. This should turn out to be one of David’s best 2016s.

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau is matured in 35% to 40% new oak with around 20% whole-
cluster fruit. It has a gorgeous bouquet with fresh blackberry and bilberry fruit, very well-integrated oak
and engaging harmony. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and good density, well balanced
although there is clearly some new wood to be subsumed toward the finish. Give this three years in
bottle.

2016 Maranges Village

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2016 Maranges Village is the usual blend of one village and one premier cru. It has a very fragrant,
floral bouquet with crushed violet petals infusing the dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit. The palate is
marked by chalky tannin, crisp and focused black fruit and a lovely edginess on the finish. What a top-
notch Maranges so expect this to land at the top of its banded score.

2016 Santenay « Cuvée S »

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
The 2016 Santenay « Cuvée S » is raised in 20 to 25% new oak from vines susceptible to millerandage. It has
a ripe, candied, violet-scented bouquet that is nicely defined, perhaps a little more elegant than previous
vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, gentle in terms of grip with a
tightly wound, slightly tertiary finish that will hopefully gain some more flesh with bottle age.

2016 Cote de Beaune Village

Pinot Noir Rating (85 – 87)
The 2016 Cote de Beaune Village was hit by frost a little since the parcels are located toward the bottom
of the slope. It has quite a vivacious red cherry/kirsch-scented bouquet that offers good vigor. The palate
is medium-bodied with fine tannin, nothing overly complex here although there is much better fruit
concentration on the finish compared to the Bourgogne Rouge.

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire

Chardonnay Rating (87 – 89)The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire has an intense bouquet with touches of honeycomb and nougat
complementing the citrus fruit, some nice leesy scents emerging with time. The palate is well balanced
with a fine thread of acidity, hints of lemon curd and peach skin, fresh and quite crisp on the finish that
just needs more persistence on the aftertaste. It will still give plenty of drinking pleasure over the next
three or four years.

2016 Meursault Les Pellans

Chardonnay Rating(90 – 92)
The 2016 Meursault Les Pellans is located on the Puligny side so therefore it did not suffer too much frost
damage. It has a vibrant bouquet with detailed yellow plum and citrus aromas, quite fresh compared to
other Meursaults that I have tasted. The palate is fresh and taut on the entry with a fine bead of acidity,
the one-third new oak lending a slightly creamy texture toward the passionfruit-tinged finish that lingers
in the mouth. Lovely.

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Rouge) has a precise, detailed, slightly floral bouquet with
black cherries and hints of cassis, the oak neatly entwined with the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied
with fine, supple tannin and a keen line of acidity. It is fresh and taut, the most linear of David Moreau’s
wines with a slightly clipped finish. Hopefully it will just gain a little substance in bottle.

2015 Santenay Village (Blanc)

Chardonnay Rating (84 – 86)
The 2015 Santenay Village (Blanc) comes from a single parcel next to Chassagne-Montrachet, a plot that
has a lot of millerandage. It contains no new oak, as David felt the fruit was already ripe. I found the
aromatics a little disjointed at first and never really bound together as its red equivalents from Bourgogne
Rouge. The palate has light tropical notes on the entry, smooth and slightly waxy in texture with a simple
finish that offers a dab of fresh ginger on the aftertaste. For early-drinking pleasure.

2015 Cote de Beaune Village

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
The 2015 Côte de Beaune Village, which is in fact Santenay Village declassified, has an open and inviting
bouquet: crushed strawberry and raspberry preserve aromas complemented by hints of brown spice. The
palate is medium-bodied with fine precision and poise. There is a lovely grainy texture, dark berry fruit
tinged with cola towards the structured, chalky finish. This comes highly recommended.

2015 Bourgogne Aligoté

Aligoté Rating 84
The 2015 Bourgogne Aligoté, which was bottled at the end of October after ageing 20% in old barrel and
80% in tank, has a pleasing apple blossom and Conference pear-scented bouquet. The palate is fresh on
the entry with white peach and a pleasant saline finish that just cuts away a little swiftly.

2015 Meursault Les Pellans

Chardonnay Rating (86 – 88)
The 2015 Meursault Les Pellans, which debuted in 2013 at the domaine, comes from a parcel that David’s
grandfather bought in the mid-1990s just below Les Charmes. It only includes millerandé grapes and it it
matured in one-third new oak. To be honest, I found the nose a little anonymous and did not quite
express the character of Meursault. The palate is fortunately much better with apricot and orange zest, a
fine thread of acidity with a touch of dried honey on the finish. Hopefully the aromatics will meliorate by
the time of bottling. Maybe a little less new oak would be better, but hey, David only has three barrels and
so it would be mathematically tricky to have less.

2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

Pinot Noir Rating (91 – 93)
The 2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, matured in 30% new oak and with 25% whole bunch, has a
charming bouquet with plenty of raspberry and crushed strawberry scents, more blue fruit emerging
compared to the Cuvée S. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy sappy red and black fruit, a very subtle
chalkiness towards the finish, but remaining very focused and tensile all the way through. This is an
excellent wine from David Moreau – possibly his best in 2015.

2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches

Pinot Noir Rating(90 – 92)
The 2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Rouge) contains 5-10% whole bunch fruit. It has a mellow
bouquet compared to the Clos Rousseau at the moment, bashful at first but unfolding in the glass and
eventually offering black cherries and red plum aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded
opening. This is much more expressive in the mouth, offering layers of black and red fruit with a hint of
salted licorice on the long aftertaste.

2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir Rating (86 – 88)
The 2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir was entirely matured in barrel. It offers dark berry fruit on the nose, an
attractive undergrowth scent emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry. There
is a pleasant marine influence here and impressive density on the finish. This is very fine.

2015 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire

Chardonnay Rating(88 – 90)
The 2015 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire had been racked just before the vintage and had been in tank
since the beginning of September. They kept some lees after racking to feed the wine, and it matured in
25% new oak. It has an attractive, yeasty, baked bread-scented bouquet that gains complexity in the glass.
There is good definition here. The palate is very well balanced with tropical fruit: mango and pineapple,
hints of white peach and even a hint of rhubarb. The acidity is finely tuned and there is a lovely twist of
lime cordial on the finish. It does not have enormous length but it will give 4-5 years of pleasure.

2015 Santenay « Cuvée S »

Pinot Noir Rating (90 – 92)
The 2015 Santenay « Cuvée S » includes 25% whole cluster fruit, and has a lively and vivid bouquet with
floral red cherry and strawberry scents that are very seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy
opening that caresses the mouth. The acidity is well judged and there is immense purity and charm
towards the saline finish. It will probably drink earlier than the Maranges Village, but it has the weight to
suggest it will age over 6-8 years.

2015 Maranges Village

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2015 Maranges Village, a blend of two blocks—one village and the other premier cru—contains 15%
whole bunch fruit this year. It has a gorgeous red cherry, wild strawberry and blood orange-scented
bouquet that is beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied, quite firm and « serious » on the entry
with rigid tannin, the fruit more black than red with a grainy, slightly foursquare finish that deserves a
couple of years to open. This is very fine.

2014 Santenay « Cuvée S »

Pinot Noir Rating 88
The 2014 Santenay « Cuvée S » has a slightly introspective, black fruit and tar-scented nose that feels a little
rustic but has what you might call a simplistic charm. The palate is medium-bodied with cranberry and
blackberry notes that feel saline in the mouth. I like the freshness here, and though not as complex as the
nascent 2015 or a recently tasted 2013, there is a pleasurable sour cherry vein on the finish that says:
« C’mon… come back for another sip. » Tasted December 2016.

2013 Bourgogne Aligoté

Aligoté Rating 83
The 2013 Bourgogne Aligoté, which has hitherto been sold to negociants, has a light marzipan bouquet
that is well defined. The palate has quite pointed acidity and if I am honest, doesn’t quite have the weight
and roundness that I seek in an Aligoté. At the moment the aromatics are better than the palate. I am sure
David will make better in the future.

2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

Pinot Noir Rating (87 – 89)
The 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau seemed a little flat on the nose but another sample showed
much better with fresh strawberry and cranberry scents. The palate exerts a gentle but insistent grip: dark
berry fruit, forest floor notes, broody in comparison to the Santenay Cuvée S but with a pleasant saline
finish that just cuts away a little too quickly, unlike the 2012 last year that demonstrated more persistence
in the mouth.

2013 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (Blanc)

Chardonnay Rating (88 – 90)
The 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire, which had been racked just before vintage, has light chalky
bouquet that is more complex and defined than the Village Cru. The palate has a pleasant, lightly honeyed
texture that neatly offsets the honeyed fruit, the finish focused and persistent. Drink this over the next six
to eight years.

2013 Maranges Village

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2013 Maranges Villages, a blend of village and premier cru block from vines planted in the 1940s, has
an attractive nose with blackberry and wild strawberry scents, a floral wild-rose element emerging in the
glass. The palate is very well proportioned with a keen line of acidity, slightly grainy in texture with a
sprinkle of black pepper on the finish. Excellent!

2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches had quite a bit of reduction on the nose. The palate is
supple and lithe with clean redcurrant and red cherry notes, an attractive citric line of acidity with a
pointed, quite spicy finish that lingers temptingly in the mouth. This is an assured Santenay that should
drink well over the next 8-10 years.

2013 Santenay Village (Blanc)

Chardonnay Rating 86
The 2013 Santenay Village Blanc had been bottled at the beginning of September. It has a lifted grapefruit
and bruised-apple-scented bouquet. The palate is primal and slightly herbaceous with bitter lemon on the
slightly pithy finish. Drink this over the next two or three years.

2013 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir Rating 87
The maiden 2013 Bourgogne Rouge comes from a large parcel that Jean Moreau had planted in the 1970s.
The parcel is 1.8-hectares and David used only part of the plot where the grapes were most aerated and
the wine sees no oak. The nose is crisp and fresh with touches of bell pepper infusing the red berry fruit.
The palate is medium-bodied, quite rustic, but with sufficient fruit concentration to back up those coarse-
edged tannin. Simple for sure, but I found this is full of charm.

2013 Santenay « Cuvée S »

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
The 2013 Santenay “Cuvée S” suffered a lot of millerandage and was cropped at 37hl/ha. It has a sweet
and ripe strawberry jam and red cherry nose, a slight tininess just behind. The palate is medium-bodied
with firm tannins, quite masculine in style, with dark plum and boysenberry on the foursquare but
delineated finish. It needs to just meld together a little, but it should drink well over the next 5 or 6 years.

2013 Cote de Beaune Village

Pinot Noir Rating (85 – 87)
The 2013 Côte de Beaune Village is a blend of three parcels as in previous years and this year, one-third
was aged in tank. It has a pure pastille-like bouquet with very clean lines – developing iodine scents with
time. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly hard tannins at the moment that render the finish a little
foursquare. Give this a year after bottling.

2013 Meursault Les Pellans

Chardonnay Rating (90 – 92)
The 2013 Meursault les Pellans is a new fermage from David’s grandfather, Jean Moreau. It has a complex
white peach and limestone-scented bouquet that is half Puligny and half Meursault (…Muligny?) The
palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with well-judged acidity, subtle tropical tones neatly
counterbalanced by the racy acidity. Long in the mouth, this debut is well worth seeking out.

2012 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (Blanc)

Chardonnay Rating (90 – 92)
There are three 300-liter barrels of the 2012 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire of which one is new. It has a
much more complex, nuanced bouquet compared to the Village Cru with vivacious lime flower and orange
cordial scents married neatly with the oak. The palate is very well-balanced with a fine line of acidity
cutting through the mineral-driven fruit. This is linear and focused but already is endowed with a
flattering, rounded finish counterbalanced with plenty of tension. Excellent. I introduced Santenay
winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A
few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the
previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what will be in
bottle without sulfur. “I don’t like empty barrels,” he told me, “so I have one stock of full barrels, which do
not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the
elevage will be done in tank.” I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. “It was a very late malo-
lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don’t like early malos but I was starting to get worried
after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it
was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the
vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.” This is a very
promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and
good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see
www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2012 Maranges Village

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
The 2012 Maranges Village is raised in one new barrel out of seven that were filled. It has a lovely
bouquet, which is clearly a step up from the Cote de Beaune Village with generous dark plum and
raspberry scents that already feel rounded and complete. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky but
succulent tannins. There is plenty of dark fruit here and it demonstrates fine tension on the finish. Very
fine. I introduced Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue
of The Wine Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples
had been bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically
identical to what will be in bottle without sulfur. “I don’t like empty barrels,” he told me, “so I have one
stock of full barrels, which do not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the
2012s, the remainder of the elevage will be done in tank.” I asked David about the maturation of his
2012s. “It was a very late malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don’t like early malos
but I was starting to get worried after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone
else had finished. I remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had
no botrytis. Our work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much
of the water.” This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red
fruit, ample freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through
various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
The 2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches has a more masculine, austere bouquet than the Clos
Rousseau at this prenatal juncture: earthier, perhaps more aloof. The palate is structured with thick
tannins, very good weight in the mouth and a solid finish of impressive density. It is (of course) still primal
and feels sinewy, but it should mellow with continued elevage and soften once in bottle. Again, patience
will be necessary. Give this at least three to five years in bottle before broaching. I introduced Santenay
winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A
few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the
previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what will be in
bottle without sulfur. “I don’t like empty barrels,” he told me, “so I have one stock of full barrels, which do
not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the
elevage will be done in tank.” I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. “It was a very late malo-
lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don’t like early malos but I was starting to get worried
after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it
was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the
vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.” This is a very
promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and
good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see
www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2012 Santenay « Cuvée S »

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
The 2012 Santenay Cuvee “S” suffered millerandage and yields were just 20 hectoliters per hectare
compared to the usual 25 hectoliters per hectare. It has a refined, delicate but precise bouquet with
attractive red rather than black fruit, touches of rose petals emerging with a few swirls of the glass. The
palate is lively, quite succulent and rounded with good density and weight in the mouth. The tannins feel
fine and lend the finish a feminine touch. This will be worth seeking out. I introduced Santenay winemaker
David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A few weeks
later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the previous
evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what will be in bottle
without sulfur. “I don’t like empty barrels,” he told me, “so I have one stock of full barrels, which do not
see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the elevage
will be done in tank.” I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. “It was a very late malo-lactic, most
(barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don’t like early malos but I was starting to get worried after the
summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it was very
wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the vineyard paid
off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.” This is a very promising set
of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and good
structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see
www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2012 Cote de Beaune Village

Pinot Noir Rating (84 – 86)
The 2012 Cote de Beaune Village is aged only in used barrels. It has a full, rounded bouquet with
strawberry and raspberry scents. The palate feels nicely balanced: a little compact with firm tannins. The
finish is a little short, but there is ample freshness if not quite the weight at the moment. I introduced
Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine
Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been
bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what
will be in bottle without sulfur. “I don’t like empty barrels,” he told me, “so I have one stock of full barrels,
which do not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder
of the elevage will be done in tank.” I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. “It was a very late
malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don’t like early malos but I was starting to get
worried after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I
remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our
work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.”
This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample
freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US
importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)The 2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, which sees one-third new oak, sports a fruit-driven bouquet
with plump, generous fresh strawberry, red cherry and spice that should blossom once in bottle. The
palate is given structure and body by the new wood component that is well-judged, allowing the terroir to
come through. Good weight in the mouth, exerting a little more grip than the Cuvee “S,” and with a
focused, masculine finish, this will probably merit two or three years in barrel after bottling. I introduced
Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine
Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been
bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what
will be in bottle without sulfur. “I don’t like empty barrels,” he told me, “so I have one stock of full barrels,
which do not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder
of the elevage will be done in tank.” I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. “It was a very late
malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don’t like early malos but I was starting to get
worried after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I
remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our
work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.”
This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample
freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US
importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2012 Santenay Village (Blanc)

Chardonnay Rating (87 – 89)
The 2012 Santenay Village Blanc sees no new oak, unlike the Premier Cru Blanc. It has a very primal
bouquet with tropical scents: grapefruit, touches of mango, rose water and persimmon. The palate is well-
balanced with good weight on the lightly honeyed entry. There is a very expressive Santenay Blanc with a
well-defined finish that has a lovely spicy aftertaste. This already feels quite fat in the mouth and should
provide plenty of early-drinking pleasure. I introduced Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on
Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at
his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed,
though the blend was practically identical to what will be in bottle without sulfur. “I don’t like empty
barrels,” he told me, “so I have one stock of full barrels, which do not see any sulfur until they are racked
being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the elevage will be done in tank.” I asked David
about the maturation of his 2012s. “It was a very late malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late
August. I don’t like early malos but I was starting to get worried after the summer. We started picking on
September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that
we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated)
between the rows absorbed much of the water.” This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the
leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky
Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

2011 Maranges Village

Pinot Noir Rating 88
The 2011 Maranges Village is a blend of two or three parcels. Though around half of the area is Premier
Cru it is blended simply because the quantity is so small. The vines were planted in1943 and 1947 and
represent the only vines not planted by Jean Moreau. It is raised in used oak. It has a nonchalant, well-
defined, very pure bouquet with attractive scents of raspberry pastille, wild strawberry and dark plum.
The palate is quite tannic and bold on the entry that exerts a gently but insistent grip. It is nicely balanced,
not complex and quite linear, but one can appreciate the focus and length. Very fine?light ‘n breezy. Drink
now-2017. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron.
His father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to
grandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean
approached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in
fact similar to his grandfather’s practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of
Santenay is less well-known than others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to
receive a decent income. But David commented that he does not want to produce more than 40
hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per
hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not
adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which
he infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year.
Grasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the
last in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during
fermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little
rustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to
learn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from
barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-
29-70

2011 Santenay « Cuvée S »

Pinot Noir Rating 89
The 2011 Santenay Cuvee S is a blend of village crus, mainly from Les Corniers which is affected by a lot of
millerandage and therefore produces only 20hl/ha. It is an homage to David’s grandmother Simone, who
apparently is still working the vines at the age of 81. Raised in one-third new oak to impart a little more
complexity, it has a lifted, perfumed bouquet with touches of blackberry leaf, raspberry and cold stone.
The palate is nicely balanced with a fine thread of acidity and like David mentioned, the oak is quite
prominent at this stage and will definitely require a couple of years to be fully absorbed. But there is good
weight on the back-palate and it should reward cellaring. Drink 2015-2022. David Moreau studied at
Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron. His father was a sports teacher and
so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to grandson. This meant there was more
imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean approached his retirement. He informed his
grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in fact similar to his grandfather’s practices
when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of Santenay is less well-known than others and
this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to receive a decent income. But David
commented that he does not want to produce more than 40 hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir,
although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These
reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard,
but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which he infers as correcting an imbalance in the
vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year. Grasses are grown between vines to
reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the last in Santenay to harvest. There are
no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during fermentation and he dislikes early
malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little rustic perhaps, but thoroughly
enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to learn his art and responsive to
feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman
Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

Pinot Noir Rating 90
From the southern part of the village from shallow, red ferrous soils, the 2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos
Rousseau has a very pure bouquet with wild strawberry and Morello scents that blossom with aeration.
The palate is tannic on the entry with dark plum and black cherries, a fine line of acidity and a pleasing
sense of symmetry toward the poised finish. This is one of David Moreau’s best 2011s. Very fine. Drink
2014-2022. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron.
His father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to
grandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean
approached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in
fact similar to his grandfather’s practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of
Santenay is less well-known than others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to
receive a decent income. But David commented that he does not want to produce more than 40
hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per
hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not
adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which
he infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year.
Grasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the
last in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during
fermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little
rustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to
learn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel.
Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-
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2011 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (blanc)

Chardonnay Rating 90
The 2011 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (the lieu-dit means that it is a nice place to live because it is
warm) is raised in 20-25% new oak in larger barrels. David thinks he might have picked this a little late, but
even if he did, he serendipitously created a lovely white Santenay. It has a lovely bouquet with touches of
wild honey and citrus fruit, hints of orange blossom emerging with just a few swirls. The palate is well-
balanced with plenty of peachy, mango-tinged fruit on the entry. It is very poised, not exotic but certainly
demonstrating good weight in the mouth all the way to the satisfying finish. Excellent. David Moreau
studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron. His father was a sports
teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to grandson. This meant there
was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean approached his retirement. He
informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in fact similar to his grandfather’s
practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of Santenay is less well-known than
others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to receive a decent income. But David
commented that he does not want to produce more than 40 hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir,
although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These
reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard,
but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which he infers as correcting an imbalance in the
vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year. Grasses are grown between vines to
reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the last in Santenay to harvest. There are
no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during fermentation and he dislikes early
malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little rustic perhaps, but thoroughly
enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to learn his art and responsive to
feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman
Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

2011 Côte de Beaune Village

Pinot Noir Rating 85
The 2011 Cote de Beaune Village comes from three parcels at the bottom of the slope between Santenay
and Chassagne, about 1-hectare of vines. The wine is raised in used barrels. It has an attractive strawberry
and cranberry scented bouquet that is simple but clean and joyful. The palate is crisp and taut on the
entry. This is a very tightly-wound Cote de Beaune, lively on the entry and just needing to put on a little
weight toward the slightly attenuated finish. Drink now. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon
University, having always aspired to be a vigneron. His father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking
passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to grandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to
start in the vineyards when Jean approached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to
do want he wanted, which was in fact similar to his grandfather’s practices when he was young. David
mentioned that the appellation of Santenay is less well-known than others and this means that some
vignerons produce more quantity to receive a decent income. But David commented that he does not
want to produce more than 40 hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions
limited him to 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on
a fruit day (David does not adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He
never green harvests, which he infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively
large bunches the following year. Grasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors
combined means that he was of the last in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here,
and only wild yeasts are used during fermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These
wines were natural, well-crafted, a little rustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a
young self-conscious winemaker, eager to learn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and
look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers),
Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches

Pinot Noir Rating 89
From a 0.9-hectares plot located on the Chassagne side of the village (whose soil is so thin that David
recently broke his plough), the 2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches has a more sedate bouquet when
compared against the Clos Rousseau 2011, refined wild strawberry and lovely floral notes emerge with
time. The palate is nicely balanced, more feminine than the Clos Rousseau, with a silky smooth texture
and a harmonious finish that is very satisfying. Probably one to enjoy in its youth, this is finely crafted.
Drink now-2020. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a
vigneron. His father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau,
to grandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean
approached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in
fact similar to his grandfather’s practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of
Santenay is less well-known than others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to
receive a decent income. But David commented that he does not want to produce more than 40
hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per
hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not
adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which
he infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year.
Grasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the
last in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during
fermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little
rustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to
learn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from
barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-
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