{"id":184,"date":"2018-11-13T15:16:18","date_gmt":"2018-11-13T14:16:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bourgogne-david-moreau.com\/fr\/?p=184"},"modified":"2022-04-13T15:44:18","modified_gmt":"2022-04-13T13:44:18","slug":"revue-de-presse-2017","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bourgogne-david-moreau.com\/fr\/actualites\/revue-de-presse-2017\/","title":{"rendered":"Revue de presse 2017"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Wall Street Journal<\/h2>\n

Battez la bulle Bourguignone : Vins encore abordables<\/p>\n

Lire l’article de Lettie Teague<\/a><\/p>\n

Winehog<\/h2>\n

Lire l’article de Steen \u00d6hman<\/a><\/p>\n

Robert Parker Wine Advocate<\/h2>\n
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2016 Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Aligot\u00e9<\/span> Rating 83<\/span>
Bottled mid-October, the 2016 Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9 consists of just one 300-liter barrel this year. It has a<\/span>
light and slightly buttery bouquet. The palate is simple but balanced though it lacks a little Aligot\u00e9 typicit\u00e9<\/span>
on the innocuous finish.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (84 – 86)<\/span>
The 2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which sees no new oak, offers subtle hints of blue fruit on the playful<\/span>
nose. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin, moderate depth although I found this just<\/span>
tapering in toward the leafy finish.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Santenay Les H\u00e2tes<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (87 – 89)<\/span>
The maiden 2016 Santenay Les H\u00e2tes comes from a parcel located on the sloped part of the vineyard up<\/span>
by Beaurepaire. It was previously sold to a nego\u00e7iant. It has a vivid red cherry and bergamot-scented<\/span>
bouquet that has plenty of vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin, nicely structured on<\/span>
the entry but becoming more supple toward the transparent finish. This is a fine debut although I think<\/span>
there is better to come.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (90 – 92)<\/span>
The sophomore 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard was fermented in a concrete vat like the 2015. It has a<\/span>
delightful, well-defined bouquet with vivacious, detailed redcurrant and raspberry preserve aromas that<\/span>
blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well-judged acidity, fresh and<\/span>
tensile with a poised and quite tensile finish. This should turn out to be one of David\u2019s best 2016s.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (89 – 91)<\/span>
The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau is matured in 35% to 40% new oak with around 20% whole-<\/span>
cluster fruit. It has a gorgeous bouquet with fresh blackberry and bilberry fruit, very well-integrated oak<\/span>
and engaging harmony. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and good density, well balanced<\/span>
although there is clearly some new wood to be subsumed toward the finish. Give this three years in<\/span>
bottle.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Maranges Village<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (89 – 91)<\/span>
The 2016 Maranges Village is the usual blend of one village and one premier cru. It has a very fragrant,<\/span>
floral bouquet with crushed violet petals infusing the dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit. The palate is<\/span>
marked by chalky tannin, crisp and focused black fruit and a lovely edginess on the finish. What a top-<\/span>
notch Maranges so expect this to land at the top of its banded score.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (88 – 90)<\/span>
The 2016 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb is raised in 20 to 25% new oak from vines susceptible to millerandage. It has<\/span>
a ripe, candied, violet-scented bouquet that is nicely defined, perhaps a little more elegant than previous<\/span>
vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, gentle in terms of grip with a<\/span>
tightly wound, slightly tertiary finish that will hopefully gain some more flesh with bottle age.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Cote de Beaune Village<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (85 – 87)<\/span>
The 2016 Cote de Beaune Village was hit by frost a little since the parcels are located toward the bottom<\/span>
of the slope. It has quite a vivacious red cherry\/kirsch-scented bouquet that offers good vigor. The palate<\/span>
is medium-bodied with fine tannin, nothing overly complex here although there is much better fruit<\/span>
concentration on the finish compared to the Bourgogne Rouge.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire<\/span><\/h3>\n

Chardonnay<\/span> Rating (87 – 89)<\/span>The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire has an intense bouquet with touches of honeycomb and nougat<\/span>
complementing the citrus fruit, some nice leesy scents emerging with time. The palate is well balanced<\/span>
with a fine thread of acidity, hints of lemon curd and peach skin, fresh and quite crisp on the finish that<\/span>
just needs more persistence on the aftertaste. It will still give plenty of drinking pleasure over the next<\/span>
three or four years.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Meursault Les Pellans<\/span><\/h3>\n

Chardonnay<\/span> Rating(90 – 92)<\/span>
The 2016 Meursault Les Pellans is located on the Puligny side so therefore it did not suffer too much frost<\/span>
damage. It has a vibrant bouquet with detailed yellow plum and citrus aromas, quite fresh compared to<\/span>
other Meursaults that I have tasted. The palate is fresh and taut on the entry with a fine bead of acidity,<\/span>
the one-third new oak lending a slightly creamy texture toward the passionfruit-tinged finish that lingers<\/span>
in the mouth. Lovely.<\/span><\/p>\n

2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (89 – 91)<\/span>
The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Rouge) has a precise, detailed, slightly floral bouquet with<\/span>
black cherries and hints of cassis, the oak neatly entwined with the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied<\/span>
with fine, supple tannin and a keen line of acidity. It is fresh and taut, the most linear of David Moreau\u2019s<\/span>
wines with a slightly clipped finish. Hopefully it will just gain a little substance in bottle.<\/span><\/p>\n

2015 Santenay Village (Blanc)<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating (84 – 86)
\nThe 2015 Santenay Village (Blanc) comes from a single parcel next to Chassagne-Montrachet, a plot that
\nhas a lot of millerandage. It contains no new oak, as David felt the fruit was already ripe. I found the
\naromatics a little disjointed at first and never really bound together as its red equivalents from Bourgogne
\nRouge. The palate has light tropical notes on the entry, smooth and slightly waxy in texture with a simple
\nfinish that offers a dab of fresh ginger on the aftertaste. For early-drinking pleasure.<\/p>\n

2015 Cote de Beaune Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
\nThe 2015 C\u00f4te de Beaune Village, which is in fact Santenay Village declassified, has an open and inviting
\nbouquet: crushed strawberry and raspberry preserve aromas complemented by hints of brown spice. The
\npalate is medium-bodied with fine precision and poise. There is a lovely grainy texture, dark berry fruit
\ntinged with cola towards the structured, chalky finish. This comes highly recommended.<\/p>\n

2015 Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9<\/h3>\n

Aligot\u00e9 Rating 84
\nThe 2015 Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9, which was bottled at the end of October after ageing 20% in old barrel and
\n80% in tank, has a pleasing apple blossom and Conference pear-scented bouquet. The palate is fresh on
\nthe entry with white peach and a pleasant saline finish that just cuts away a little swiftly.<\/p>\n

2015 Meursault Les Pellans<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating (86 – 88)
\nThe 2015 Meursault Les Pellans, which debuted in 2013 at the domaine, comes from a parcel that David’s
\ngrandfather bought in the mid-1990s just below Les Charmes. It only includes millerand\u00e9 grapes and it it
\nmatured in one-third new oak. To be honest, I found the nose a little anonymous and did not quite
\nexpress the character of Meursault. The palate is fortunately much better with apricot and orange zest, a
\nfine thread of acidity with a touch of dried honey on the finish. Hopefully the aromatics will meliorate by
\nthe time of bottling. Maybe a little less new oak would be better, but hey, David only has three barrels and
\nso it would be mathematically tricky to have less.<\/p>\n

2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (91 – 93)
\nThe 2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, matured in 30% new oak and with 25% whole bunch, has a
\ncharming bouquet with plenty of raspberry and crushed strawberry scents, more blue fruit emerging
\ncompared to the Cuv\u00e9e S. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy sappy red and black fruit, a very subtle
\nchalkiness towards the finish, but remaining very focused and tensile all the way through. This is an
\nexcellent wine from David Moreau – possibly his best in 2015.<\/p>\n

2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating(90 \u2013 92)
\nThe 2015 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Rouge) contains 5-10% whole bunch fruit. It has a mellow
\nbouquet compared to the Clos Rousseau at the moment, bashful at first but unfolding in the glass and
\neventually offering black cherries and red plum aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded
\nopening. This is much more expressive in the mouth, offering layers of black and red fruit with a hint of
\nsalted licorice on the long aftertaste.<\/p>\n

2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (86 – 88)
\nThe 2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir was entirely matured in barrel. It offers dark berry fruit on the nose, an
\nattractive undergrowth scent emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry. There
\nis a pleasant marine influence here and impressive density on the finish. This is very fine.<\/p>\n

2015 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating(88 – 90)
\nThe 2015 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire had been racked just before the vintage and had been in tank
\nsince the beginning of September. They kept some lees after racking to feed the wine, and it matured in
\n25% new oak. It has an attractive, yeasty, baked bread-scented bouquet that gains complexity in the glass.
\nThere is good definition here. The palate is very well balanced with tropical fruit: mango and pineapple,
\nhints of white peach and even a hint of rhubarb. The acidity is finely tuned and there is a lovely twist of
\nlime cordial on the finish. It does not have enormous length but it will give 4-5 years of pleasure.<\/p>\n

2015 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (90 – 92)
\nThe 2015 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb includes 25% whole cluster fruit, and has a lively and vivid bouquet with
\nfloral red cherry and strawberry scents that are very seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy
\nopening that caresses the mouth. The acidity is well judged and there is immense purity and charm
\ntowards the saline finish. It will probably drink earlier than the Maranges Village, but it has the weight to
\nsuggest it will age over 6-8 years.<\/p>\n

2015 Maranges Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
\nThe 2015 Maranges Village, a blend of two blocks\u2014one village and the other premier cru\u2014contains 15%
\nwhole bunch fruit this year. It has a gorgeous red cherry, wild strawberry and blood orange-scented
\nbouquet that is beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied, quite firm and \u00ab\u00a0serious\u00a0\u00bb on the entry
\nwith rigid tannin, the fruit more black than red with a grainy, slightly foursquare finish that deserves a
\ncouple of years to open. This is very fine.<\/p>\n

2014 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 88
\nThe 2014 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb has a slightly introspective, black fruit and tar-scented nose that feels a little
\nrustic but has what you might call a simplistic charm. The palate is medium-bodied with cranberry and
\nblackberry notes that feel saline in the mouth. I like the freshness here, and though not as complex as the
\nnascent 2015 or a recently tasted 2013, there is a pleasurable sour cherry vein on the finish that says:
\n\u00ab\u00a0C’mon… come back for another sip.\u00a0\u00bb Tasted December 2016.<\/p>\n

2013 Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9<\/h3>\n

Aligot\u00e9 Rating 83
\nThe 2013 Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9, which has hitherto been sold to negociants, has a light marzipan bouquet
\nthat is well defined. The palate has quite pointed acidity and if I am honest, doesn\u2019t quite have the weight
\nand roundness that I seek in an Aligot\u00e9. At the moment the aromatics are better than the palate. I am sure
\nDavid will make better in the future.<\/p>\n

2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (87 – 89)
\nThe 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau seemed a little flat on the nose but another sample showed
\nmuch better with fresh strawberry and cranberry scents. The palate exerts a gentle but insistent grip: dark
\nberry fruit, forest floor notes, broody in comparison to the Santenay Cuv\u00e9e S but with a pleasant saline
\nfinish that just cuts away a little too quickly, unlike the 2012 last year that demonstrated more persistence
\nin the mouth.<\/p>\n

2013 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (Blanc)<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating (88 \u2013 90)
\nThe 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire, which had been racked just before vintage, has light chalky
\nbouquet that is more complex and defined than the Village Cru. The palate has a pleasant, lightly honeyed
\ntexture that neatly offsets the honeyed fruit, the finish focused and persistent. Drink this over the next six
\nto eight years.<\/p>\n

2013 Maranges Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
\nThe 2013 Maranges Villages, a blend of village and premier cru block from vines planted in the 1940s, has
\nan attractive nose with blackberry and wild strawberry scents, a floral wild-rose element emerging in the
\nglass. The palate is very well proportioned with a keen line of acidity, slightly grainy in texture with a
\nsprinkle of black pepper on the finish. Excellent!<\/p>\n

2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (89 – 91)
\nThe 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches had quite a bit of reduction on the nose. The palate is
\nsupple and lithe with clean redcurrant and red cherry notes, an attractive citric line of acidity with a
\npointed, quite spicy finish that lingers temptingly in the mouth. This is an assured Santenay that should
\ndrink well over the next 8-10 years.<\/p>\n

2013 Santenay Village (Blanc)<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating 86
\nThe 2013 Santenay Village Blanc had been bottled at the beginning of September. It has a lifted grapefruit
\nand bruised-apple-scented bouquet. The palate is primal and slightly herbaceous with bitter lemon on the
\nslightly pithy finish. Drink this over the next two or three years.<\/p>\n

2013 Bourgogne Pinot Noir<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 87
\nThe maiden 2013 Bourgogne Rouge comes from a large parcel that Jean Moreau had planted in the 1970s.
\nThe parcel is 1.8-hectares and David used only part of the plot where the grapes were most aerated and
\nthe wine sees no oak. The nose is crisp and fresh with touches of bell pepper infusing the red berry fruit.
\nThe palate is medium-bodied, quite rustic, but with sufficient fruit concentration to back up those coarse-
\nedged tannin. Simple for sure, but I found this is full of charm.<\/p>\n

2013 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
\nThe 2013 Santenay \u201cCuv\u00e9e S\u201d suffered a lot of millerandage and was cropped at 37hl\/ha. It has a sweet
\nand ripe strawberry jam and red cherry nose, a slight tininess just behind. The palate is medium-bodied
\nwith firm tannins, quite masculine in style, with dark plum and boysenberry on the foursquare but
\ndelineated finish. It needs to just meld together a little, but it should drink well over the next 5 or 6 years.<\/p>\n

2013 Cote de Beaune Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (85 – 87)
\nThe 2013 C\u00f4te de Beaune Village is a blend of three parcels as in previous years and this year, one-third
\nwas aged in tank. It has a pure pastille-like bouquet with very clean lines \u2013 developing iodine scents with
\ntime. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly hard tannins at the moment that render the finish a little
\nfoursquare. Give this a year after bottling.<\/p>\n

2013 Meursault Les Pellans<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating (90 – 92)
\nThe 2013 Meursault les Pellans is a new fermage from David\u2019s grandfather, Jean Moreau. It has a complex
\nwhite peach and limestone-scented bouquet that is half Puligny and half Meursault (…Muligny?) The
\npalate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with well-judged acidity, subtle tropical tones neatly
\ncounterbalanced by the racy acidity. Long in the mouth, this debut is well worth seeking out.<\/p>\n

2012 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (Blanc)<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating (90 – 92)
\nThere are three 300-liter barrels of the 2012 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire of which one is new. It has a
\nmuch more complex, nuanced bouquet compared to the Village Cru with vivacious lime flower and orange
\ncordial scents married neatly with the oak. The palate is very well-balanced with a fine line of acidity
\ncutting through the mineral-driven fruit. This is linear and focused but already is endowed with a
\nflattering, rounded finish counterbalanced with plenty of tension. Excellent. I introduced Santenay
\nwinemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A
\nfew weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the
\nprevious evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what will be in
\nbottle without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty barrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one stock of full barrels, which do
\nnot see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the
\nelevage will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. \u201cIt was a very late malo-
\nlactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don\u2019t like early malos but I was starting to get worried
\nafter the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it
\nwas very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the
\nvineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.\u201d This is a very
\npromising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and
\ngood structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see
\nwww.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/p>\n

2012 Maranges Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating (88 – 90)
\nThe 2012 Maranges Village is raised in one new barrel out of seven that were filled. It has a lovely
\nbouquet, which is clearly a step up from the Cote de Beaune Village with generous dark plum and
\nraspberry scents that already feel rounded and complete. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky but
\nsucculent tannins. There is plenty of dark fruit here and it demonstrates fine tension on the finish. Very
\nfine. I introduced Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue
\nof The Wine Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples
\nhad been bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically
\nidentical to what will be in bottle without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty barrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one
\nstock of full barrels, which do not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the
\n2012s, the remainder of the elevage will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David about the maturation of his
\n2012s. \u201cIt was a very late malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don\u2019t like early malos
\nbut I was starting to get worried after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone
\nelse had finished. I remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had
\nno botrytis. Our work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much
\nof the water.\u201d This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red
\nfruit, ample freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through
\nvarious US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/p>\n

2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (88 – 90)<\/span>
The 2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches has a more masculine, austere bouquet than the Clos<\/span>
Rousseau at this prenatal juncture: earthier, perhaps more aloof. The palate is structured with thick<\/span>
tannins, very good weight in the mouth and a solid finish of impressive density. It is (of course) still primal<\/span>
and feels sinewy, but it should mellow with continued elevage and soften once in bottle. Again, patience<\/span>
will be necessary. Give this at least three to five years in bottle before broaching. I introduced Santenay<\/span>
winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A<\/span>
few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the<\/span>
previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what will be in<\/span>
bottle without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty barrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one stock of full barrels, which do<\/span>
not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the<\/span>
elevage will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. \u201cIt was a very late malo-<\/span>
lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don\u2019t like early malos but I was starting to get worried<\/span>
after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it<\/span>
was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the<\/span>
vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.\u201d This is a very<\/span>
promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and<\/span>
good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see<\/span>
www.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/span><\/p>\n

2012 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (89 – 91)<\/span>
The 2012 Santenay Cuvee \u201cS\u201d suffered millerandage and yields were just 20 hectoliters per hectare<\/span>
compared to the usual 25 hectoliters per hectare. It has a refined, delicate but precise bouquet with<\/span>
attractive red rather than black fruit, touches of rose petals emerging with a few swirls of the glass. The<\/span>
palate is lively, quite succulent and rounded with good density and weight in the mouth. The tannins feel<\/span>
fine and lend the finish a feminine touch. This will be worth seeking out. I introduced Santenay winemaker<\/span>
David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A few weeks<\/span>
later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the previous<\/span>
evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what will be in bottle<\/span>
without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty barrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one stock of full barrels, which do not<\/span>
see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the elevage<\/span>
will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. \u201cIt was a very late malo-lactic, most<\/span>
(barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don\u2019t like early malos but I was starting to get worried after the<\/span>
summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it was very<\/span>
wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the vineyard paid<\/span>
off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.\u201d This is a very promising set<\/span>
of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and good<\/span>
structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see<\/span>
www.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/span><\/p>\n

2012 Cote de Beaune Village<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (84 – 86)<\/span>
The 2012 Cote de Beaune Village is aged only in used barrels. It has a full, rounded bouquet with<\/span>
strawberry and raspberry scents. The palate feels nicely balanced: a little compact with firm tannins. The<\/span>
finish is a little short, but there is ample freshness if not quite the weight at the moment. I introduced<\/span>
Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine<\/span>
Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been<\/span>
bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what<\/span>
will be in bottle without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty barrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one stock of full barrels,<\/span>
which do not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder<\/span>
of the elevage will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. \u201cIt was a very late<\/span>
malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don\u2019t like early malos but I was starting to get<\/span>
worried after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I<\/span>
remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our<\/span>
work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.\u201d<\/span>
This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample<\/span>
freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US<\/span>
importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/span><\/p>\n

2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau<\/span><\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir<\/span> Rating (89 – 91)<\/span>The 2012 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, which sees one-third new oak, sports a fruit-driven bouquet<\/span>
with plump, generous fresh strawberry, red cherry and spice that should blossom once in bottle. The<\/span>
palate is given structure and body by the new wood component that is well-judged, allowing the terroir to<\/span>
come through. Good weight in the mouth, exerting a little more grip than the Cuvee \u201cS,\u201d and with a<\/span>
focused, masculine finish, this will probably merit two or three years in barrel after bottling. I introduced<\/span>
Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on Burgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine<\/span>
Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at his 2012s from barrel. The samples had been<\/span>
bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed, though the blend was practically identical to what<\/span>
will be in bottle without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty barrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one stock of full barrels,<\/span>
which do not see any sulfur until they are racked being filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder<\/span>
of the elevage will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David about the maturation of his 2012s. \u201cIt was a very late<\/span>
malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late August. I don\u2019t like early malos but I was starting to get<\/span>
worried after the summer. We started picking on September 26 when everyone else had finished. I<\/span>
remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that we had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our<\/span>
work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated) between the rows absorbed much of the water.\u201d<\/span>
This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the leitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample<\/span>
freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US<\/span>
importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/span><\/p>\n

2012 Santenay Village (Blanc)<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating (87 – 89)
\nThe 2012 Santenay Village Blanc sees no new oak, unlike the Premier Cru Blanc. It has a very primal
\nbouquet with tropical scents: grapefruit, touches of mango, rose water and persimmon. The palate is well-
\nbalanced with good weight on the lightly honeyed entry. There is a very expressive Santenay Blanc with a
\nwell-defined finish that has a lovely spicy aftertaste. This already feels quite fat in the mouth and should
\nprovide plenty of early-drinking pleasure. I introduced Santenay winemaker David Moreau in my report on
\nBurgundy 2011s in the August issue of The Wine Advocate. A few weeks later I was back to take a look at
\nhis 2012s from barrel. The samples had been bottled the previous evening with a little CO2 removed,
\nthough the blend was practically identical to what will be in bottle without sulfur. \u201cI don\u2019t like empty
\nbarrels,\u201d he told me, \u201cso I have one stock of full barrels, which do not see any sulfur until they are racked
\nbeing filled with the 2013. For the 2012s, the remainder of the elevage will be done in tank.\u201d I asked David
\nabout the maturation of his 2012s. \u201cIt was a very late malo-lactic, most (barrels) finishing mid- to late
\nAugust. I don\u2019t like early malos but I was starting to get worried after the summer. We started picking on
\nSeptember 26 when everyone else had finished. I remember it was very wet on the first day, but after that
\nwe had only sun and we had no botrytis. Our work in the vineyard paid off and the grass (cultivated)
\nbetween the rows absorbed much of the water.\u201d This is a very promising set of 2012s that expressed the
\nleitmotifs of the vintage: bright red fruit, ample freshness and good structures. Importer: Becky
\nWasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)<\/p>\n

2011 Maranges Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 88
\nThe 2011 Maranges Village is a blend of two or three parcels. Though around half of the area is Premier
\nCru it is blended simply because the quantity is so small. The vines were planted in1943 and 1947 and
\nrepresent the only vines not planted by Jean Moreau. It is raised in used oak. It has a nonchalant, well-
\ndefined, very pure bouquet with attractive scents of raspberry pastille, wild strawberry and dark plum.
\nThe palate is quite tannic and bold on the entry that exerts a gently but insistent grip. It is nicely balanced,
\nnot complex and quite linear, but one can appreciate the focus and length. Very fine?light \u2018n breezy. Drink
\nnow-2017. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron.
\nHis father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to
\ngrandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean
\napproached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in
\nfact similar to his grandfather\u2019s practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of
\nSantenay is less well-known than others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to
\nreceive a decent income. But David commented that he does not want to produce more than 40
\nhectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per
\nhectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not
\nadhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which
\nhe infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year.
\nGrasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the
\nlast in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during
\nfermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little
\nrustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to
\nlearn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from
\nbarrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-
\n29-70<\/p>\n

2011 Santenay \u00ab\u00a0Cuv\u00e9e S\u00a0\u00bb<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 89
\nThe 2011 Santenay Cuvee S is a blend of village crus, mainly from Les Corniers which is affected by a lot of
\nmillerandage and therefore produces only 20hl\/ha. It is an homage to David\u2019s grandmother Simone, who
\napparently is still working the vines at the age of 81. Raised in one-third new oak to impart a little more
\ncomplexity, it has a lifted, perfumed bouquet with touches of blackberry leaf, raspberry and cold stone.
\nThe palate is nicely balanced with a fine thread of acidity and like David mentioned, the oak is quite
\nprominent at this stage and will definitely require a couple of years to be fully absorbed. But there is good
\nweight on the back-palate and it should reward cellaring. Drink 2015-2022. David Moreau studied at
\nBeaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron. His father was a sports teacher and
\nso the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to grandson. This meant there was more
\nimperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean approached his retirement. He informed his
\ngrandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in fact similar to his grandfather\u2019s practices
\nwhen he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of Santenay is less well-known than others and
\nthis means that some vignerons produce more quantity to receive a decent income. But David
\ncommented that he does not want to produce more than 40 hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir,
\nalthough the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These
\nreds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard,
\nbut he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which he infers as correcting an imbalance in the
\nvineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year. Grasses are grown between vines to
\nreduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the last in Santenay to harvest. There are
\nno enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during fermentation and he dislikes early
\nmalolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little rustic perhaps, but thoroughly
\nenjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to learn his art and responsive to
\nfeedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman
\nSelection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70<\/p>\n

2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 90
\nFrom the southern part of the village from shallow, red ferrous soils, the 2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos
\nRousseau has a very pure bouquet with wild strawberry and Morello scents that blossom with aeration.
\nThe palate is tannic on the entry with dark plum and black cherries, a fine line of acidity and a pleasing
\nsense of symmetry toward the poised finish. This is one of David Moreau\u2019s best 2011s. Very fine. Drink
\n2014-2022. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron.
\nHis father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to
\ngrandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean
\napproached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in
\nfact similar to his grandfather\u2019s practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of
\nSantenay is less well-known than others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to
\nreceive a decent income. But David commented that he does not want to produce more than 40
\nhectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per
\nhectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not
\nadhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which
\nhe infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year.
\nGrasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the
\nlast in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during
\nfermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little
\nrustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to
\nlearn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel.
\nImporter: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-
\n29-70<\/p>\n

2011 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (blanc)<\/h3>\n

Chardonnay Rating 90
\nThe 2011 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire (the lieu-dit means that it is a nice place to live because it is
\nwarm) is raised in 20-25% new oak in larger barrels. David thinks he might have picked this a little late, but
\neven if he did, he serendipitously created a lovely white Santenay. It has a lovely bouquet with touches of
\nwild honey and citrus fruit, hints of orange blossom emerging with just a few swirls. The palate is well-
\nbalanced with plenty of peachy, mango-tinged fruit on the entry. It is very poised, not exotic but certainly
\ndemonstrating good weight in the mouth all the way to the satisfying finish. Excellent. David Moreau
\nstudied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a vigneron. His father was a sports
\nteacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to grandson. This meant there
\nwas more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean approached his retirement. He
\ninformed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in fact similar to his grandfather\u2019s
\npractices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of Santenay is less well-known than
\nothers and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to receive a decent income. But David
\ncommented that he does not want to produce more than 40 hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir,
\nalthough the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These
\nreds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard,
\nbut he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which he infers as correcting an imbalance in the
\nvineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year. Grasses are grown between vines to
\nreduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the last in Santenay to harvest. There are
\nno enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during fermentation and he dislikes early
\nmalolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little rustic perhaps, but thoroughly
\nenjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to learn his art and responsive to
\nfeedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman
\nSelection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70<\/p>\n

2011 C\u00f4te de Beaune Village<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 85
\nThe 2011 Cote de Beaune Village comes from three parcels at the bottom of the slope between Santenay
\nand Chassagne, about 1-hectare of vines. The wine is raised in used barrels. It has an attractive strawberry
\nand cranberry scented bouquet that is simple but clean and joyful. The palate is crisp and taut on the
\nentry. This is a very tightly-wound Cote de Beaune, lively on the entry and just needing to put on a little
\nweight toward the slightly attenuated finish. Drink now. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon
\nUniversity, having always aspired to be a vigneron. His father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking
\npassed from grandfather, Jean Moreau, to grandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to
\nstart in the vineyards when Jean approached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to
\ndo want he wanted, which was in fact similar to his grandfather\u2019s practices when he was young. David
\nmentioned that the appellation of Santenay is less well-known than others and this means that some
\nvignerons produce more quantity to receive a decent income. But David commented that he does not
\nwant to produce more than 40 hectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions
\nlimited him to 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on
\na fruit day (David does not adhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He
\nnever green harvests, which he infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively
\nlarge bunches the following year. Grasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors
\ncombined means that he was of the last in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here,
\nand only wild yeasts are used during fermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These
\nwines were natural, well-crafted, a little rustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a
\nyoung self-conscious winemaker, eager to learn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and
\nlook forward to tasting his 2012s from barrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers),
\nLe Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70<\/p>\n

2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches<\/h3>\n

Pinot Noir Rating 89
\nFrom a 0.9-hectares plot located on the Chassagne side of the village (whose soil is so thin that David
\nrecently broke his plough), the 2011 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches has a more sedate bouquet when
\ncompared against the Clos Rousseau 2011, refined wild strawberry and lovely floral notes emerge with
\ntime. The palate is nicely balanced, more feminine than the Clos Rousseau, with a silky smooth texture
\nand a harmonious finish that is very satisfying. Probably one to enjoy in its youth, this is finely crafted.
\nDrink now-2020. David Moreau studied at Beaune and Dijon University, having always aspired to be a
\nvigneron. His father was a sports teacher and so the winemaking passed from grandfather, Jean Moreau,
\nto grandson. This meant there was more imperative for David to start in the vineyards when Jean
\napproached his retirement. He informed his grandfather that he had to do want he wanted, which was in
\nfact similar to his grandfather\u2019s practices when he was young. David mentioned that the appellation of
\nSantenay is less well-known than others and this means that some vignerons produce more quantity to
\nreceive a decent income. But David commented that he does not want to produce more than 40
\nhectoliters per hectare for Pinot Noir, although the weather conditions limited him to 25 hectoliters per
\nhectare in 2010, 2011 and 2012. These reds were bottled mid-January on a fruit day (David does not
\nadhere to the lunar calendar in the vineyard, but he does in the winery.) He never green harvests, which
\nhe infers as correcting an imbalance in the vineyard and risks excessively large bunches the following year.
\nGrasses are grown between vines to reduce vigor and these factors combined means that he was of the
\nlast in Santenay to harvest. There are no enzymes or tannins here, and only wild yeasts are used during
\nfermentation and he dislikes early malolactic fermentation. These wines were natural, well-crafted, a little
\nrustic perhaps, but thoroughly enjoyable. David struck me as a young self-conscious winemaker, eager to
\nlearn his art and responsive to feedback. I can only oblige and look forward to tasting his 2012s from
\nbarrel. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-
\n29-70<\/p>\n\n\t\t